Last words on the ravages of a bitter winter -- Florida style
As you survey the damage done by this season’s freezing, windy, rainy winter you may be perplexed by its random nature. When I observe what plants have been affected, and how seriously, I am often left scratching my head and ultimately shrugging my shoulders. There seems to be no rational explanation for what was nipped or why.
There are some common denominators that determine which of the cold-sensitive, tropical plants have suffered and which haven’t. One of the most important environmental factors is the presence of moisture. Generally the closer you are to water the less your garden will be affected by a cold snap. That water can be the gulf, a wetlands, a pond or a pool. On a cold night my thermometer by the pool will actually read 2-3 degrees warmer than the one on the north side of my house. Moisture will simply moderate cold air and minimize the rapid dehydration that burns tender leaves and stems. Moisture in the soil will also aid plants resistance to cold. We have been fortunate to have had adequate rainfall in between the cold snaps and that has also minimized the carnage.
A second significant factor in protecting foliage is canopy. The canopy can be that of an oak or other shade tree. The eaves around the foundation of a house can also moderate the damage. Spreading, leafy branches or a roof seem to block the settling of cold, killing fingers of air.
A more perplexing environmental factor is the effect of wind. In some of my clients’ landscapes a heavy toll of browned foliage can be observed where frigid breezes have blown. This would logically occur on the northerly side of the house where frontal air raged unchecked. Conversely, in other locations where you would think plants would be protected in a southerly nook or alcove a heavy toll was also exacted. I can only guess that in a quiet corner cold air had settled and slowly drew the moisture out of the leaves subtly and fatally.
Finally, the relative health of plants before a cold blow undoubtedly has much to do with how they will endure. A plant which is located in an appropriate location and has received adequate moisture and nutrients will rebound with greater vigor than its malnourished or dehydrated neighbor.
These observations can inform us about how to predict and prepare for cold in the future.
March: a Time to Prune
The good news is that if you haven’t started your pruning yet now is the time. Sharpen those shears and prepare to make plants healthy. Cold damage requires that you cut deeper in some cases than you would normally but ultimately the effect will be positive.
The best way to determine how far to cut back is to wait until the sprouting foliage appears and cut, at least, back to that point. You may want to cut back more heavily to establish a pleasing shape. Try to open the shrub upward and outward removing in-growing stems and dead or diseased branches back to healthy tissue. If you want to get started before spring foliage breaks, the depth of the damage can be determined by snapping dry, dead branches or scratching bark until you can see green living cambium. Prune back to that level of growth.
The process of dying may continue for months in some cases and a second pruning may be necessary Plants which were previously diseased or in poor health may die back even months later. Natural selection dictates that the strongest will survive.
Plant of the Month
One plant that can be relied on for color in March is the venerable azalea. This symbol of the old South seems to be out of favor in recent years and is less frequently used in new landscape plantings. One of my former clients once said to me, "I want a nice bed of azaleas, just have fun with it." And I did. We used 50 specimens and I planted them in "drifts" with "foils" of contrasting colors. That produced a sense of rhythm and flow that I always try to achieve when designing a landscape, waves of color emerging from the oak canopy.
If you have the space and resources this is a nice way to enhance a landscape. If you don’t, a small number of azaleas can be used to add delicate color and verdant texture to your foundation or flower bed. Formosa cultivars thrive in our area. Choose a location that is shaded and well-drained. When planting, supplement the native, sandy earth with a generous amount of organic soil.
Azaleas love a rich growing medium. Mulch moderately to permit good drying between waterings. Be prepared to fertilize 2-3 times during the growing season after blooming has finished in the spring. Since they are heavy feeders, choose an analysis that includes an adequate amount of iron to ward off chlorosis and keep leaves green and growing. A light pruning each season will keep your shrubs shapely and vital.
Rick Wielgorecki has been doing landscape consultations, installations, and maintenance in Sarasota since 1977 and can be contacted at (941) 362-0600 or wielgo@hotmail.com.